Why are the prices for DutyKote's Monster Tough coatings higher than color coatings of competitors?
While Monster Tough per-ounce prices are higher, the coverage rate and per use costs are lower. This creates a great, winning value for both the applicators and customers.
Our air-cure formula is primarily competing against oven-cure formulas. To demonstrate our competitive edge, consider the following:
- Coverage Rates - Per the manufacturer's recommended coverage rates, DutyKote is 2x as effective. For example, Cerakote should be applied at 2-3 mils vs. Monster Tough, between 0.4-1 mil.
- Product Waste - Oven-cure products are created from a two-component epoxy blend. Once mixed, you must use all of it or lose any excess. Even the best applicators, lose a lot of product doing this. Monster Tough is a single component formula, so whatever is unused can be promptly returned to the bottle with minimal waste.
- Shelf Life - An additional waste factor is that the competition has a shorter shelf life and, thus, can be wasted over time. Monster Tough, if stored properly, has an indefinite shelf life.
What is the shelf life for DutyKote?
The coatings will last for many years if you keep DutyKote sealed and away from air and moisture. Start by wiping any excess coating off the container's rim and inside the cap with a clean cloth to get a great seal. Next, if possible, replace the air in the container with an inert gas (such as nitrogen or argon), then put on and tighten the lid. Finally, store it in a cool, dry space.
Why are Monster Tough air-cure coatings not sold in gallon containers?
The quart size is the largest size we recommend for maintaining quality control on the material as you use it. If you had a gallon size, it would be difficult to maintain a uniform consistency of the coating's components, from first use to the last, when trying to shake and mix the ingredients due to settling. This would result in less than optimal results. We recommend that if you need an entire gallon of Monster Tough, purchase it in four quarts.
Is it possible for the mist to be too fine and the coating dries before contact?
It is possible; however, you can easily avoid it. Controllable factors include:
- Using the correct nozzle and tip size
- Adjusting the air pressure to fit the part size
- The temperature in the spray booth
- The volume of airflow in the spray booth
The coating draws away from the part before reaching the intended surface if the airflow in the spray booth is too high. After using the products, applicators will quickly learn to minimize the waste and maximize the results.
What is the best way to clean equipment and drips?
We recommend acetone, xylene, and a MEK replacement (a milder version of MEK). To best clean material from your hands, use denatured alcohol. When cleaning up, make sure that your containers of the coatings are closed. Keep any cleaning materials and water from splashing or dripping into your unused coatings.
What is the best way to surface prep before applying the coatings?
We recommend using Modern Spartan Systems' Carbon Destroyer™ or Carbon Destroyer XX™ for removing carbon, oil, and grease. You can use Nothing Left™ as a final rinse cleaner to remove light oils, salts, and minerals. When using these water-based products, make sure to completely dry the substrate (clean cloths, heated airflow). We recommend denatured alcohol as a final wipe before applying the coatings. Higher temperature heat exposure is an excellent way to reveal (via off-gassing) any remaining oils or contamination so that they can be cleaned from the surface.
Is it safe to handle and generally be around the coatings?
The coatings are entirely safe if used properly. The Polysilazane cured resin is FDA compliant for food contact surfaces. There are no ingredients within the cured formulas that are toxic or dangerous if ingested. Suppose someone wanted to use the Monster Tough coatings on countertops or other surfaces coming in contact with food. In that case, we have a clear non-stick coating that can be "thin -wiped" over the color coatings to make it easier to clean.
What media do we recommend for blasting a profile on surfaces to be coated?
It is always best to create a blast profile by a fine 120 grit aluminum oxide, garnet or equal, on all coated surfaces. Do not use glass or natural sand as your blasting media. They will impede the adhesion of the coating to the surface. Do not handle blasted parts with bare hands. The oils, salts, and acids from hands can contaminate the surface and possibly cause a loss of adhesion in those areas that will see extreme heat or extreme weathering.
How much time do I need before stenciling?
Hang the Dry to Touch part in a warm, 90-110°F temperature with modest airflow. Hanging the part in front of an electric heater and relatively low humidity for 20 minutes should be adequate; however, 30 minutes would be safer.
Remember that the cure time will partially depend on the stencil product used and how great its adhesive bond is. The cure time will vary between manufacturers - a higher bonding stencil will require the previous coating to be more cured. Trial and error may be the best way for each applicator to determine the best results.
How do I best use stencils?
Use an airbrush to create patterns of various colors with sharp or slightly fogged edges. Lightly swiping the second color with a cloth or brush can expose the base colors in various directions, giving a worn or used appearance. To create grass or crumpled leaf patterns, use green and brown combinations. For winter and snow patterns, use whites and light greys.