DutyKote coatings are the next-generation of proprietary, cutting edge Polysilazane nano-ceramic blended formulas used to decorate and protect firearms, knives, archery equipment and so on. They have been designed to handle extreme abrasion abuse and super high levels of heat. They are applicator friendly and can be easier and more efficient to work with compared to heat cure coatings.
Our nano-ceramic coatings are formulated from varying ratios of three different proprietary Polysilazane chemistries and other ingredients. They are referred to as precursor ceramics. The coatings we offer are formulated to air-cure at ambient temperatures (although their cure can be accelerated by warmer temperatures and air movement). When they are fully cured at ambient and then exposed to higher temperatures and/or pressure combinations, the ceramic structure will sinter, starting to become more of a true ceramic material as the temperatures & pressures are increased.
Look at COST-TO-COAT & DIFFERENTIATOR BENEFITS, not per ounce price.
Some people look at the per ounce price as high. That is a mistake. The total cost of coating plus application costs are what matters. Besides Monster Tough being the KING of gun coatings (the toughest, most wear and abrasion resistant, heat resistant, chemical resistant, durable coating on the market), AND BESIDES offering the Super Prime, and all the additive options, when used properly, the total cost of coating a gun can be equal to or lower when compared to any other coating product on the market. From a time, labor, energy, floor space, equipment investment, and very high coverage rate perspective, the DutyKote line is a much easier and more profitable set of products to work with.
It is very important to thoroughly mix the coating prior to pouring it from the container to the spray gun. Components in the coatings can settle on the bottom of the container and clump up. These clumps need to be broken up and uniformly dispersed. Rigorous hand shaking for 2-3 minutes or using a shaking machine for 2-3 minutes is good. It is recommended to practice taking a stirring stick after shaking, check the bottom of the container to make certain no clumps are present. If they are gone, you are ready to use the product. If there are still some clumps, break up with the stirring stick, and repeat the shaking process. Proper mixing is well worth the effort.
Great question, better answer. Yes, the Monster Tough per once prices are higher, but that is not what is important. What is important is that the coverage rate and per/use costs are lower. They are low enough to create a GREAT WINNING VALUE for both the applicators and for the people getting their guns coated up with Monster Tough, the best coatings on the market.
Our air-cure formula is primarily competing against oven-cure formulas. Here are three factors that demonstrate the greater once per use value of Monster Tough.
This depends on the type of bottle that you choose.
Plastic bottles will last up to 6 months once they are opened and sealed and stored properly. The plastic bottles allow you to better see the color, and if you use the product within a few months, the plastic is fine.
If you choose the metal container, the coatings will last for many years as long as you keep them sealed and away from air and moisture.
With either plastic or metal, start by wiping any excess coating off the container’s rim and inside the cap with a clean cloth to get a great seal. Next, if possible, replace the air in the container with an inert gas (such as nitrogen or argon), then put on and tighten the lid. Finally, store it in a cool, dry space.
The quart is the largest size we recommend for maintaining quality control on the material as you use it. If you had a gallon size, it would be difficult maintain a uniform consistency of the coating’s components, from first use to the last, when trying to shake and mix the ingredients due to settling. This would result in less than optimal results. We recommend that if you need an entire gallon of Monster Tough, purchase it in four quarts.
It is possible; however, you can easily avoid it. Controllable factors include:
The coating draws away from the part before reaching the intended surface if the airflow in the spray booth is too high. After using the products, applicators will quickly learn to minimize waste and maximize the results.
We recommend acetone, xylene, and an MEK replacement (a milder version of MEK) to clean equipment. To best clean material from your hands, use denatured alcohol. When cleaning up, make sure that your containers of the coatings are closed. Keep any cleaning materials and water from splashing or dripping into your unused coatings.
We recommend using Modern Spartan Systems’ Carbon Destroyer™ or Carbon Destroyer XX™ for removing carbon, oil, and grease. You can use Nothing Left™ as a final rinse cleaner to remove light oils, salts, and minerals. When using these water-based products, make sure to completely dry the substrate (clean cloths, heated airflow). We recommend denatured alcohol as a final wipe before applying the coatings. Higher temperature heat exposure is an excellent way to reveal (via off-gassing) any remaining oils or contamination so that they can be cleaned from the surface.
The coatings are entirely safe if used properly. The cured Polysilazane resin is FDA compliant for food contact surfaces. There are no ingredients within the cured formulas that are toxic or dangerous if ingested. Suppose someone wanted to use the Monster Tough coatings on countertops or other surfaces coming in contact with food
It is always best to create a blast profile with a fine 120 grit aluminum oxide, garnet or equal, on all coated surfaces. Do not use glass or natural sand as your blasting media. They will impede the adhesion of the coating to the surface. Do not handle blasted parts with bare hands. The oils, salts, and acids from hands can contaminate the surface and possibly cause a loss of adhesion in those areas that will see extreme heat or extreme weathering.
Hang the Dry to Touch part in a warm, 90-110°F temperature modest airflow. Such as hanging the part in front of an electric heater and relatively low humidity for 20 minutes should be adequate; however, 30 minutes would be safer.
Remember that the cure time will partially depend on the stencil product used and how great it’s adhesive bond is. The cure time will vary between manufacturers – a higher bonding stencil will require the previous coating to be more cured. Trial and error may be the best way for each applicator to determine the best results.
Use of an airbrush to create patterns of various colors with sharp or slightly fogged edges. Lightly swipe the second color with a cloth or brush to expose the base colors in various directions, can give the “worn or used appearance”. To create grass or crumpled leaf patterns, use green and brown combinations. For winter and snow patterns, use white and light greys.
After disassembling the gun, the parts need to be cleaned and free from grease and other contaminants. Carbon Destroyer from Modern partan Systems is an extremely effective, water based, GREEN degreaser that won’t etch metal or other substrates, and is designed to remove carbon, minerals, grease and even Cosmine. You can clean the parts by hand, but soaking or using the product in an ultra-sonic cleaner, will work the best. Go to Modernspartansystems.com to purchase the product.